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Producing imagery with Archicad or 3rd party products; Surfaces; Lighting; Cameras; Artlantis/Cinema 4D/Maxwell etc.

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By Erwin Edel
If you mean the 'wobble' in the reflection / glass? That's a bump channel in the glass surfaces, you can just turn that off in the surface settings.

If you mean that the panel colours are uneven, that would be a texture or procedural shader setting. Either the texture has different shades or there is a procedural 'checker board' type extra layer / channel somewhere given different shades.

Not sure how to achieve softer shadows.
By darwinland
Erwin Edel wrote: Wed Aug 01, 2018 11:10 am Before rendering, get a good composition for your shot. 54 degree view cone comes close to human eye (no uncomfortable fish eye lens looks!), basic rule of thirds composition (by approximation) ussually works well, I find. Two point perspective button is my friend too. Save your camera in a path for future use.

I use special renovation filter (called Presentation) that I use to hide all my birds, trees, people etc from the technical model. I make more of these for each camera as needed.

If the modelled surroundings becomes too complex, I sometimes have a seperate PLN for this and hotlink the building model in to the 'terrain' PLN.

After this, proceed as below.

Start with Outdoor Daylight Fast (Physical).

Untick Detailed Settings (if that is ticked).

Pick a nice physical sky under Environment (I like Friendly Afternoon). Make sure Use ARCHICAD Sun Position is ticked, or your settings for sun altitude and azimuth won't be used.

Tick Detailed Settings.

Go to Environment > Physical Sky > Clouds. Turn off Cast Shadows (looks rubbish, IMO).

Go to Global Illumination, pick Preset Exterior Preview. If you find the render to have too many 'dark spots', up the setting to Preset Exterior Physical Sky (expect an increase in render time of about 4x).

Go to Options > General Options. Set Ray Threshold to 0 to have reflective surfaces look their best (IMO), or at a very low value to have some reflections show. Set Ray Depth to around 12 or higher depending on how many planes of glass are visible in the shot. 12 works for me in most projects. Do the same for Reflection Depth. Tick Generate Alpha Mask if you intend to swap out the background of the Physical Sky for a picture in a photo editor (make sure you save your image as PNG with 'High Accuracy Color with Alpha Channel' to have the transparancy mask available).

Consider printing size. I render out my images at 195x135 mm, 300 DPI. These still print fine when sized up to A4 full sheet on a decent printer.

Make sure Apply Render Safe Frame is ticked.

Hit render button.

With these settings a typical project render takes less than 3 minutes on my old workstation.

I then add some sketch render channels and do a bit of photoshop watercolour effects + desaturating of colours etc and get results as below.

These are our typical renders that need to be reproduced often for the client when design changes are made. It takes max. 5 minutes to do, and by using layer effects in photoshop, it becomes copy + paste of a few images and merge layers down to show changes for a new render.

Might not be your preferred style of presentation, but we are happy with the results.
Finally I am getting good exterior renders. It is much about good detailed model and postproduction to arrange contrast brightness and tones. But Still I have 2 questions, you said that you filter the human models, birds, tree,..., and also separate the terrain from the building through usage of hotline. But how does this affect to the render, do you render different scenes for the human models and the terrain and they put together in photoshop?
I found that using Ray T 0, Ray Reflection 12 and R depth 12 it takes too long.
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By Erwin Edel
Renovation filters allow you to use 'Show on current Renovation Filter only' button (it looks like a stack of 3 floorplans and sits on top right of renovation palette).

So say I have a camera (camera 1), I would populate the view with my birds, people etc and then add them to a custom renovation filter (presentation camera 1) using that button. Add and repeat as needed for other cameras. I only do this with elements that work for certain shots, things I want to see in all shots are just hidden by the 3D Viz layer I use. Since the 2d cardboard cutout silhouettes are allways facing the camera, I find that I want to have different setups, for different shots and rather than have layers for all those shots, I just hide them using the custom renovation filter.

Hope that makes it clear.

The complex surroundings, would be for exampe a school project we did, where we had the whole playground and surrounding buildings modelled. We just had this entire presentation stuff as a seperate .pln and hotlinked the building model in to that, to keep our building model .pln clean of all the presenation clutter (and extra file size).
By Roopa A
Erwin Edel wrote:Also remember you are trying to 'sell' your design. Taking some artistic liberties in favour of realism is fine in my book. I generally dial the sun in to a 45 degree of which ever corner of the building I am looking at, with an altitude of around 55 degree for some friendly shadow casting, even if that side of the building would never see the sun.

Stick your camera at eye height (1650 mm), face it up until you see the top of the building and some air, hit the 2 point perspective button and see if that looks like a good presentation of the building.

For your image, I'd move the camera back a bit, try to show more than one side of the building in the shot, draw a bit of pavement to lead up to entrance and guide the viewers eye there.

You can try using some light sources to illuminate the interior a bit. There is a great 'general light', that is basically just a sphere of light that has an 'endless reach' button. It can fill an entire space quite evenly with light, especially for daytime renders. Make sure you turn on the lights in cinerender settings to see it.

You could make an entire lighting plan, but this will increase renders times a LOT and for an exterior render, that seems a bit over the top.

Consider the refraction of glass in your camera position too. Glass view at an angle will reflect more and show less of what is inside. If you want to show a particular interior part of the building, you should be looking at it relatively head on.

Take a look around the web / magazines for photographs and artist impression you like and try to analyse a bit what it is that makes them work. Also take note of the lens flared abominations that don't work and why they look odd (inserted stock photo people with shadows at the wrong side, things like that).

I adjusted these setting, but still the image is not correct,
where the shadow is falling na, there it is coming bright. and light effect is also not proper.
I have attached the rendered image
Beena resi 1.jpg
Beena resi 1.jpg (202.63 KiB) Viewed 139 times
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By Erwin Edel
My guess would be that all those spot lights etc are affecting the things you mentioned.

Try adjusting the settings for those.

Given the sugested daylight scene, you can probably dial their settings far back.

A lot of light sources also significantly increase your render times. You could turn them off completely so you only see the 3D models for the fixtures and maybe replace them with a glowing surface. This won't cast light, but will give a fake suggestion of light there.